Wednesday, May 4, 2016
Tuesday, May 3, 2016
Wednesday, December 10, 2014
LOST AND FOUND
What to do?
- First of all, check for a collar with name or contact details for the owner.
- You may take the animal to a local vet or shelter to scan the animal for a microchip.
- If there is a microchip found you may look up the number (on fido.ie, animark.ie, pet trace, Irish kennel club) to look for owner contact info
- Please note the vet or shelter is under no obligation to take it.
- If you find a pup/kitten – don’t take it straight away unless it is in danger – the mother may well be back for it
- You may ring the local dog warden to pick up a stray dog – your local county council should have the number.
- Council pounds may euthanise the animal after a week if no owner has come forward.
- Animal shelters / charities will house them longer to try find them a home
- Call your local vet and animal shelter / pound telling them the details of the pet such as breed, colour, male or female, relative age, and where found.
KSPCA helpline - (087) 1279835
Kildare animal foundation – (045) - 522 929
Kildare Gardai – (045)527737
Kildare dog pound - (059) 8623388
KWWSPCA Animal Welfare Officer – 087 6887136
Kildare county council - (045) 980205
Behaviour Programme at Kildare Vet
We are delighted to introduce our new training programme for dogs now available
Please contact the clinic to put your name on the list if you would like to avail of our new dog behaviour training programme. This will involve eduation for both dog and owner on how to train your pet and combat any behavioural issues your pet may have. We now have the facility to make arrangements to call out to your home and view the dog in as natural environment as possible, and to make changes within the family to improve quality of life for you and your best friend. In most families or homes there are certain things and modifications that need to be made.
We have an increasing client base with dogs that have certain behavioural issues. While these may start out small, they can grow to an increasing and worrying size if left unattended. These can grow to such an issue that unfortunately re-homing may be considered or even euthanasia in some extreme cases. These problems can usually be combated by continuous client education, and correcting problems while young and before they has a chance to take hold and become ingrained. Such problems you may encounter that we may help you combat are;
- separation anxiety
- excessive barking
- inappropriate urination and/or defecation
- play biting
- toilet training
- leash walking
For plenty of dogs and their owners the learning of canine behaviour is hugely important and effective to having a happy healthy relationship with your pet. Misconceptions and ideas and misinformation can lead to a lot of inaccuracies about dog training and we are here to give you correct information. It usually just takes time, treats, calmness and consistency. The old saying you can't teach an old dog new tricks - is untrue. It will just take a little longer! Certain breeds can also need more handling and a stricter set of rules and a clear objective to what they are allowed to do and what not allowed to do. Huskies for example are particularly hard to train in recall, that is to come back to the owner when off the leash. We have different programmes in place for family pets and different breeds.
Look forward to hearing from you
Thursday, November 27, 2014
DES GROOME'S at KILDARE FARM FOOD OPEN DAY
SAT 29th SUNDAY 30th Nov 2014
9-3 pm Sat & Sun
SANTA ON SUNDAY 30th
Come down for some festive fun this weekend
Des the vet and one of our nurses will be on hand to answer any pet queries
We will be having a stall to celebrate our new local Irish alliance with NOLAN'S butchers
Promoting our lip smacking new PET FOOD range and BONES - the healthy alternative for your pet!
These products are great for TEETH, FLAVOUR and DIGESTION and even BEHAVIOUR PROBLEMS
Come and talk to us to find out more
And give your dog the best present this Christmas
Kildare farm food 045 526 774
Des Groome Kildare Vet 045 521 507
How to find Kildare Farm Foods ;
Take exit 13 off the motorway (N7)
Take the first left off the roundabout (with the horses)
Right at the crossroads
At the fork keep left
Follow the signs - 2nd lane on the right!
Friday, November 21, 2014
PET PARASITE CONTROL - WORM AND FLEA RULES
A lot of people ask us about flea and worm control for their pet. Here are some of the commonly asked questions.
What are parasites?
These organisms are nasty living bugs that suck the life and nutrition out of your pet – a parasite is an organism that feeds on another organism (the host) at the benefit of itself and the expense of the host.
Fleas, Lice, Mites - You need to protect your pet against external (ecto) and internal (endo) parasites. External (outside) parasites live, as the name hints outside the body. These include fleas, ticks, ear mites, biting lice and grass mites etc. They bite the skin of your pet to get the blood and make your pet scratch. The best way to prevent these is regular spot-on treatments bought from your local veterinary hospital (NOT SUPERMARKET – these are nowhere near as effective). They can also be bought as a spray. Some good product names included are Frontline, Amflee, Pestigon, Stronghold.
Worms - Endo-parasites refer to worms and parasites inside the body. The two most prevalent are roundworm and tapeworm. Be careful to worm your pet regularly if you have small children as roundworm can potentially cause blindness in them. Roundworm is common in pups and pregnant bitches. Eggs are passed in faeces and can survive in the environment. Tapeworms can be obtained from raw meat or fleas and more common in the adult dog. Good product names would include milbemax, stronghold, prowormer, prazitel. These are oral tablets.
When you come in to buy your flea and worm treatments you do not need to bring your pet with you. We just need a rough idea of size just tell us the breed.
How to apply a spot-on?
To apply the spot-on, open the packet surrounding it. You will then find a little pipette of liquid which you break the seal at the top. Part the hair at the back of the dog or cats neck and apply all of the liquid onto the skin. Do not have your dog or cat in lashing rain or swimming / bathing for the next 48h to let the product sink in and take effect.
How often do I worm my pet dog/cat?
- · Before 8 weeks (feeding off bitch) – worm the bitch/queen midway through pregnancy
- · Before 8 weeks (hand reared) puppy/kitten wormer – parazole
- · From 8weeks on ; every TWO weeks until three months old
- · Three months; Every month until 6 months old
- · Six months (adult) ; Every 3 months
- · Puppy/Kitten: All can be assumed have worms. You have to worm a puppy or kitten more frequently because of this. A puppy with a huge infestation might prove fatal; a small puppy cannot handle all the nutritional draining done by the worms.
How do I know if my pet has worms?
You can take it for granted pups and kittens have worms, and so worm regularly as outlined above to prevent and kill infestations. You may not see signs or symptoms in early stages so always worm and flea your pet regularly before it comes a problem. A very bad worm infection can be fatal especially in young or weak animals.
The signs of a pup having worms are a full swollen tummy, dull coat, sunken eyes, listless (less energetic / sleepy), visible worms from the rectum, and a larger appetite than normal and not putting on weight.
How do I know if my pet has fleas?
You may see a visible flea on your pet. They are small black / brown insects that will hop around in the fur. Also comb through the animals hair – there will also be black ‘coal dust’ present with fleas where the hair meets the skin. You may also squish this dirt between a tissue and if you get any red staining it is an indication of fleas.
Do I have to treat my home?
Yes. If your pet sleeps inside the best thing is to treat its bedding, cushions etc it has used in a hot 90’degree wash. You will want to treat the house and furnishings (esp carpet or soft material) with a relevant flea killing spray such as RIP spray that we sell here. This spray has enough to treat a three bedroom house.
Tuesday, October 7, 2014
Thursday, September 18, 2014
Owning a pet rabbit.
Q. Is it a suitable pet?
Rabbits are good first pets. Recommended for children over 7, with adult supervision until the owner can care properly for their pet. They can scratch, bite or kick so due care is necessary. Decide if you want a short haired or long haired variety, taking into account if they will be indoor or outdoor pets. There are plenty of breeds to choose from. Bear in mind long haired will need a little extra grooming.
Q. How do i choose a healthy rabbit?
The rabbit should have a healthy soft coat with no fur patches missing; There should be no parasites anywhere on the skin. The eyes and ears should be clean and pink with no weeping and/or crusty lesions or bad smells. The rabbit should be able to chew normally. It should have a dry nose and the anus should be clean. The soles of its paws should be clean and soft and not stained with urine. The claws on the feet should be of average length and there should be no funny swellings. The rabbit should look lively and bright and take notice of its surroundings and have a healthy appetite.
Q. Where will they live?
Rabbits live in dens in the wild that they dig out themselves with plenty of hidey-holes to escape predators. They are very active and so naturally the biggest cage/hutch you can accommodate would be best. These animals are prey animals and so are given to flight - this means they should always have a couple of hiding spots that they feel safe in such as a closed nest box.
The floor of the hutch should be lined with such material as planed wood shavings or straw pellets. Sawdust may cause breathing problems and may be best avoided. Cat litter is also inappropriate. A heavy food bowl is ideal and fresh water should always be available ideally from a rodent upside down feeding bottle.
Choose weather they are to be indoor or outdoor. Indoor rabbits should be placed in a well ventilated (fresh air) area without droughts and out of direct sunlight. A relatively quiet area without too much excitement or loud noises. Outdoor rabbits will need shelter and adequate protection from the elements such as rain wind heat and cold. In winter the outdoor hutch and nest box should be insulated so they can stay warm.
Rabbits love nibbling on grass and it is a good idea to let them do so or run around the house to prevent them getting stressed, fat or unwell. First you must ''rabbit-proof'' the house to prevent them chewing on cables or other dangers eg. poisonous plants. If they are allowed on the grass you must check they cannot dig out of the garden! The outside hutch must also be protected from foxes and predators. Children can have great fun making adventurous runs for their pet out of loo rolls and other empty boxes etc.
The cage must be cleaned daily to prevent faeces and odours building up, which may also damage their lungs if not cleaned regularly. Smells and dirt will attract flies which can lay eggs and cause health problems. A triangular rabbit toilet can make this easier to clean. The hutch should be disinfected regularly to kill any bacteria and should be rinsed well afterward.
Q. What should you feed them?
Rabbits are naturally herbivores meaning they eat plant material and no meat. Fresh hay and herbs can form the most part of the diet. Pet food rabbit pellets are good but quite rich and one tablespoon per day is enough. Fresh water should always be available and changed daily. This main diet can be supplemented with foods such as lettuce, carrots, dandelions, and even some fruits such as apples.
Cabbage leaves should be avoided and starchy sugary foods also. Sudden changes in diet can lead to constipation and problems in the gut. When bringing your new rabbit home changes in his diet should be done very gradually (over 3 weeks) to avoid gut problems and it is a good idea to feed him what he is used to for a few days until gradually changing his diet to your own. If he is to nibble on fresh grass it is to be introduced very slowly.
Branches (willow, hazel and fruit trees), or special rabbit chew toys can be given so the rabbit can gnaw and wear down his teeth which grow continuously. Rabbits are one species which eat their own droppings and do not be alarmed. It is a normal trait for this animal.
Handling and restraint
Always approach the animal from the front /side where they can see you. Talk to it and for a few days after purchasing your rabbit let it get to know your face and voice. Don't overload the rabbit at once and earn its trust by offering it a treat or two from your hand. This will just need patience and calmness so the rabbit knows you are not a threat. Every animal is different and it could take days to weeks for the animal to progress to feeding from your hand, to gentle stroking, to eventually be comfortable to pick up and let run around. Some are more aggressive than others and less socialised to human contact. You will tell from watching your pet, and how comfortable he is with your touch and presence. Don't try and do it all at once. You want to see him coming over to your hand, taking the treat, not running away or acting in a scared manner.
To move or pick him up stretch out your hand that he can see your intention (don't pick from behind where you could startle him) and grab the fur at the top of his back, gently but firmly. The other hand should be used to support its hindquarters. If the rabbit is at ease his body should relax in your arms.
Rabbits don't need huge veterinary attention apart from a vaccination against myxomatosis and a yearly booster, and the unavoidable neutering.
Most problems stem from poor husbandry and so shouldn't be taken lightly. Rabbits should be neutered as they are prolific breeders and they live a lot longer if de-sexed. 85% of female rabbits develop uterine cancer by age 4/5 and it greatly reduces the males fighting between each other and causing injuries. The procedure will not change their personality but if anything they will be more sociable an better company. It eliminates spraying urine and neutered rabbits can be friends as they are not fighting over each other. The last reason is overpopulation and there are already so many rescue rabbits needing loving homes that breeding pets prevents homeless rabbits getting another chance. Males can be neutered at 5 months when their testicles descend and females can be done at 6 months old.
Rabbits are very social as naturally they live in large families and hence it is much better for them to live in groups rather than on their own. I would always recommend to have at least two to keep each other company, and it is easier to keep rabbits together that have known each other from a young age.
It is vital that you neuter them at 5 months to prevent fights and accidents. It can be difficult to integrate an old rabbit with young and so ideally start both at a young age so they get on. With other pets supervision is essential and a young age also helps. There have been incidences of strange friendships - these are usually animals that have grown up with each other. Be very careful if introducing your rabbit and keep dogs and cats on a leash and make sure the rabbit has an escape. It is also not recommended for rabbits and guinea pigs to be housed together.
Wednesday, September 10, 2014
Common diseases of Dogs and Cats’ EARS.
I would like to talk about ear care and some common misconceptions regarding treatments.The ear is a delicate organ and very important especially in our pet animals. A dog’s hearing is about 40 times greater than that of our own. The main function of the ear is hearing but it also plays a vital role in balance.
Recently we have had a lot of ear cases (some severe) needing treatment and in some circumstances the owner of the dog was wrongly treating an ear problem and had incorrect advice. Fingers crossed it is something superficial and easily treatable – but in more and more cases resistance occurs and so it is vital we treat correctly at the start.
Chronic ear infections are ones which come on slowly and stay for a long time.
The three most common products you can buy for otitis in a vet clinic after veterinary advice are;
While these are great medicines, they do not cover every ear problem or infection. Talk to us if you are worried about your pet’s ears and we will point you in the right direction. One of the most common nasty bacteria is Clostridium. This is caused by dirty stagnant water and/or livestock. It is extremely resistant to all three medicines listed above and also worryingly to most anti-biotics. Another worrying bacteria called Pseudomonas is resistant to most antibiotics, is diagnosed only after tests and like clostridium will need antibiotic tablets as part of the cure. It is also usually resistant to the 4 ear drop medicines listed above.
A recent severe case of otitis Externa in an Irish Red Setter which we investigated by sample ear swabs proved to be a Clostridium perfringens infection and which we treated at our clinic. Our Swab results showed up Only two anti-biotics out of twelve having the desired killing effect on this nasty bug.
The crucial advice is to come in for a check-up and so we can do an ear swab. This means with lab results we can immediately start to treat it accordingly with the correct drugs and anti-biotics, and will save you time and money in the long run. An ear swab is a very simple procedure in which we take some ear cells on a cotton bud and send it to the laboratory for a culture test – to see what bacteria lies in the murky depths.
This is necessary as certain drugs kill certain bacteria. Hence there is no point giving drugs or anti-biotics if you are not attacking the appropriate strain of germs. This is worse than doing nothing, as effectively what you are doing is offering the bug higher levels of resistance and your poor dog’s immunity may suffer.
Don’t assume any medicine from the chemist will be effective! We are seeing more people coming in with hastily bought products; For example Bingo our case study;
Case Study: Bingo, 5yo female golden Labrador
(with a great appetite for getting into trouble.) She came in with a two extremely swollen ears and a barely visible ear canal. She had been treated with ear cleaner, canaural, surolan, and others. None of these had any improving effect on poor Bingo and her hearing and balance was also impaired not to mention very sore. We all know how excruciating a bad ear infection is. If we had of seen Bingo at the beginning she could have saved two whole years of trying inappropriate treatments. In some severe cases and in hers, surgery may be unavoidable. She had to undergo ‘Zepp’s procedure’ which is partial ear canal resection as a result of chronic scarring to the ear tissue due to two years’ worth of painful infections. Don’t let this be you!
Common ailments of the ear;
1. Ear mites
4. Swollen ear/s
1-Ear mites can be treated with canaural or surolan. Stronghold spot on will also kill this nasty mite. Clean the ear first with damp (not soaked) cotton wool. Remove excess dirt then apply a few drops of liquid and then squish the dog’s ear around before letting the dog shake. They are indicated by dark brown crumbly material in the ear and head shaking and scratching. Careful the dog doesn't scratch at the ear or he may create a wound and introduce infection.
2-Infections will need to be seen by the vet to diagnose which the best drugs to treat are and if an ear swab culture is necessary. These can be smelly and dirty looking. The dog might also shake its head. Your pet may tilt its head.
3- Otitis / inflammation – inner ear will look red, inflamed and hot, and may have infection also. This may lead to swelling.
4- Swollen ear is a common ailment that may be caused by ear mites, which leads to the dog shaking its head which eventually becomes swollen. This may need an aural haematoma, a procedure in which the fluid in the ear is drained. Careful the dog doesn’t scratch at the ear or he may create a wound and introduce infection.